Celler Devinssi – Gratallops – #SundaySips

8 Nov

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When we last left our intrepid wine tasters, they were finishing a mid-day meal at La Figueres in Gratallops. You can read about our tasting at Clos Figueras here and the early morning tasting at Sao del Coster here. As we stabbed the last piece of sausage (and that did not come out like I had hoped), we were approached by Jordi from Celler Devinssi, the last stop of the day. Jordi would wait in the truck outside for us which was a bit more than he needed to do. So, we finished our meal and wandered outside to meet up with Jordi.

Jordi is a Russian-born, tourism-trained wine guy. We couldn’t quite understand how he actually ended up in Priorat but like so many others, he came for a bit of a stay and hasn’t left. Probably something to do with love.

We hopped in the truck which had stayed running with the A/C on to keep the wine cool. Attention to detail, baby. Jordi had a bunch of wine in the truck – he told us that he was taking us up into the vineyard to taste and talk.

Leaving the village, we exited the paved road at the same juncture as we had with Xavi of Sao del Coster and wound our way up and around through anonymous vineyards and olive groves until Jordi stopped at a little wooden building. We got out, he took the wine, we took the glasses and we walked up a terrace or two to find a barrel at a bit of a clearing.

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Celler Devinssi tasting room – Gratallops in the distance – pinch me

How cool was this? The sun had started to break through some cloud cover, Gratallops in the distance with a ray of sunlight on it, it was warm and toasty, we had a mild buzz on, and we were about to drink……er….taste some wine with our new best friend, Jordi. Jordi was delightful.

Cellar Divinssi: A little history of Celler Devinssi is needed. Celler Devinssi was founded in 2000 by Josep Roca Benito from Barcelona. He was a wine merchant and became aware of the region through contacts in the business. After three years of rehabilitating the vineyard, they bottled their first vintage. Capacity at the winery is about 10,000 bottles – a true garage wine enterprise. Most of their vineyards are planted to Garnatxa and Cariñena. But, there are some white grape vines planted as well in limited number. There is a great interview with Josep from their website here.

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Mas de les Valls – Image courtesy of http://www.devinssi.com

Jordi started us off with the white – 2013 Mas de les Valls Blanc. This is a village wine or vi de la vila – in this case – Gratallops. It definitely shows the Pedro Ximenez as I noted immediately the sherry (nutty) quality to this dry wine. The other grape is Garnatxa Blanc – lending a Rhoney vibe to it too. A nice combination of experiences. This wine would be a warm weather wine. Maybe afternoon sun – as we were experiencing. It was dry and moderately crisp. There were only 600 bottles made.

Before I get into the reds, there’s something I need to get off my chest – wine glasses at tasting rooms. In my travels, I have been blessed with many great tasting experiences. But, there have been too many where the winery has lousy wine glasses. I’m not suggesting that everyone go out there and get numerous Reidel glasses to perfectly match the wine varieties eg. the Blaufränkisch glass. But, for crying out loud – get something that’s not sold at Walmart for $12 a case!

What does that have to do with Devinssi? Well, they are small and still they use wine glasses that are very good quality for their tasting. In fact, all the wineries we entered in Priorat had good quality wine glasses, one wine per glass and no tasting fee. If I had a winery, I’d want my clients to have an optimum experience tasting my wines. And, I wouldn’t want some Canadian blogger bitching about the glasses. But, that’s just me.

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Mas de les Valls Negre – Celler Devinssi – Gratallops

The first red that we had was their most popular red, I’d bet – 2013 Mas de les Valls Negre. This is a blend of Cariñena and Garnatxa with some Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in. Now, if you’ve sipped swirled and either spit or swallowed a bunch of wine in a day, you know that your buds don’t always cooperate. You just can’t feel it. This was such a sip and spit. So, rather than miss the mark, I’m going to use their web site to provide tasting notes – “12 months in 225 litre French and American oak casks…..fragrance of fresh and macerated cherries, black fruit jam….vanilla and mild touches of timber. In the mouth, it shows appropriate acidity and a certain fattiness and long palate.” I did notice the acidity. Don’t remember the oak at all.

ililaThe next red was their 2012 Il.Lia. Garnatxa, Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon fermented separately in oak. This definitely had more oak treatment, quite dry, tannins evident. This is a cellar wine. From their web site, “French oak – 225 litres casks are used for aging….it emphasizes black fruit, ripe plums, cherries….In the mouth it shows well balanced, well structured, beefy, fatty, and wide taste.” I liked it and planned to take some back to Canada to test my hypothesis on cellar time but it didn’t make it through the trip – we consumed all of it a few days later.

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Me with my new best friend, Jordi. I’m seriously questioning the purchase of the Mountain Equipment Co-op shorts and tee. If you have a Wine Bloggers Dress Code, please forward

We returned to Gratallops via a different route. Jordi showed us the Clos Mogador vineyards and some olive groves. He made an interesting comment as we passed a mature vineyard with irrigation lines. Jordi said that the winemaker shouldn’t irrigate mature stock – he actually shamed the winemaker. Apparently irrigation is frowned upon – the nature of DOQ Priorat is to allow the harsh conditions to encourage power and depth that irrigation can reduce.

We toured the cellar facility. You need to know that the tour doesn’t last long as the cellar is in an old stone olive mill – two stories with an office and showroom/retail space upstairs and the barrel room and cellar on the ground level straight off the street. The staff (there are three, including Jordi) were there cleaning the first floor and readying the equipment for the first of the harvest. One guy’s wife was there to help.

devinssiMany wineries use the word ‘artisanal’ in describing the vibe, processes, and outcomes of their winery. Well, I’m not sure there’s a winery that’s anymore artisanal than Devinssi. When I think of the word, I think of people lovingly using their hands to craft a product from select ingredients or materials – be it cheese, wine, clothing, olive oil, or anything else. I don’t envision exhaust spewing harvesters, food scientists, or spiffy bottling lines. Well, you don’t get much of that at many Priorat wineries but Devinssi takes it a bit further. Their bottling ‘line’ is a small table with a hose. Cork it up one bottle at a time as you would at your local ‘homemade’ wine/beer store with a lever. Affix each label through the use of a small template holder for the bottle and a wet sponge. One bottle painstakingly at a time. Now, that’s not necessarily the key to making great wine but twinned with a similar ‘hands on’ approach in the vineyard, a solid site, older vines, and a level of expertise, it does work in this instance. It’s very cool to see.

If you get to Gratallops and you must, schedule some time at Devinssi and tell Jordi I sent you. You will get……well nothing that you wouldn’t get anyway but mention me anyway. After all he is my new BFF.

Here’s my penultimate pic of the Monsants.

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The Monsants. I enjoyed this picture with a little Leonard Cohen playing. Image courtesy of http://www.turismepriorat.org

An Update: Last post, I tried to explain the meaning of ‘Gratallops’. I was excited to see that someone had actually read the post and took the time to educate me. Sinisa Curavic from http://www.catalan365.wordpress.com informed me that ‘gratar’ means scratching in Catalan and ‘llops’ means wolves. So, ‘scratching wolves’. Thanks to Sinisa Curavic (check them out if you are planning on a wine trip to Catalunya).

Resources:

http://www.devinssi.com

http://www.catalunyawine.com

http://www.vinologue.com

http://www.turismepriorat.org

4 Responses to “Celler Devinssi – Gratallops – #SundaySips”

  1. Catalan Wine 365 November 8, 2015 at 11:29 am #

    Once again……., you did it! Brought out the essence of the Priorat! Well done. And thank you for mentioning https://catalanwine365.wordpress.com 🙂 Hehe…., if I get the chance to correct I will take it! 🙂 Stay well and hope to see you in the near future!

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

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